Cocoon by Elizabeth Geisler

Waldorf Weekend Coat in Whiskey, High Street Cashmere Swing Cape

Cocoon by Elizabeth Geisler is a luxury outerwear collection designed by Elizabeth Geisler in Minneapolis and made in New York City.

Cocoon was born out of Elizabeth’s frustration for the lack of attention to detail, quality, and fit in the clothing that was readily available to the modern woman. While working with top designers in New York, Elizabeth saw firsthand that products designed for the runway frequently did not translate to what real women would want to wear, so she built a company focused on providing just that.

Elizabeth sources excess and dead stock fabric from independently-owned fabric stores in New York for the collection; the cashmere, wool, and merino fabrics used are of the highest quality (and typically come from some of our favorite designer labels!), would be far more expensive if purchased directly from a mill, and help mitigate some of the tremendous waste caused by the apparel industry. The collection is made in New York City, alongside designers including Lela Rose and Kaelen.

Read on to learn more about Elizabeth and the collection!

Cocoon by Elizabeth Geisler
Waldorf Weekend Coat in Plaid

WHERE DO YOU LIVE & WORK?
I work and live in Minneapolis in a home office (and many coffee shops). I make my collection in a factory in New York City’s garment district.

WHERE ARE YOU MOST INSPIRED?
Another reason I make my collection in New York is because of how much inspiration I get when I am there! Besides all of the art and culture, you get to see so much life from spending just a few minutes on the street. It helps me think about what people might need from a coat, just by seeing all of the behaviors and habits of people from all walks of life.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO OTHER MAKERS & ENTREPRENEURS?
My advice to other makers is to put your customers first, make your product so that it will benefit them. They are choosing to take their hard earned dollars and hand them over to you. Respect that relationship. I think especially for the made in America movement, that is so important. We as the maker need to convince consumers that it is worth the extra money, the extra effort in seeking us out! Make high quality things that will make their lives better.

WHAT ARE YOUR STYLE ESSENTIALS?
I like attention grabbers, which isn’t shocking I guess since I am a designer. A great, black ankle boot is key… but my current favorite pair has red laces, just a little extra kick. The same applies to any “basic” … my favorite black blazer has a gold under collar and gold elbow patches.
I also think texture makes an outfit, it is such a subtle, but striking, style move to have on something really tactile. So a great textured sweater is a go-to for me. I don’t find it weird or creepy when someone’s way of complimenting my outfit by wanting to touch it (but maybe I should).

WHERE DO YOU ESCAPE?
During the week: the gym, endorphins really do make you happy!
For vacation: Big Sky, MT I need fresh air, mountains and nature as far as the eye can see, no skyscrapers, and no cell service for a few weeks out of the year to put everything into perspective. Snowboarding and rock climbing are just about as far away from fashion as you can get, and I need that every so often.

WHAT MAKES YOUR DAY?
When I hear stories about one of my customers who was having a rough day, and she was wearing Cocoon and just got a nice compliment, and it turned her whole day around. Or when my customer tells me, “I just feel so great in this!” That kind of thing keeps me going.
Also I work from home, alone, so I am lucky to have a goofy little puppy, Harry Winston. He just kind of breaks up the day with his antics, I think it keeps me from getting too stressed out, because he cracks me up!

Cocoon by Elizabeth Geisler
Studio Jacket in Buffalo Plaid, High Street Cashmere Swing Cape

WHY DO YOU MANUFACTURE IN AMERICA?
For one thing, I need to be in complete control of the product that my customers get. This is my line with my name on it and I need to be proud of what gets made, so it’s very important for me to be heavily involved in every part of the design and manufacturing process from start to finish. I wanted my manufacturing to be in a place that I can get to on a pretty frequent basis. During the design process I need to be sitting next to the sewers, showing them exactly how I wanted that button sewn on, or how I want the collar to lay just so. Those are things that cannot be communicated on paper or in an email.
I chose to produce my collection in New York because it’s really where I learned my craft, and because of the people; I know that I can rely on them to make the highest possible quality garment. My team there is also delivering pieces to Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys for some really high caliber designers, so I know that I can trust them to make my pieces to the level that I want. They take as much pride in their work as I do, knowing that is key. Also, it’s a beautiful thing, every type of zipper, thread, fabric or notion I could ever want is in a 10-block radius, so I can run around and get everything picked out really quickly, running back and forth to my factory in between.

HOW DOES MANUFACTURING IN AMERICA BENEFIT YOUR BUSINESS?
I am able to produce beautiful, high quality garments, and it keeps customers coming back for more. Repeat customers are my favorite, because they get it, quality matters!

Elizabeth Geisler
Photos by Melissa Oholendt.
Shop Cocoon by Elizabeth Geisler. Follow Cocoon on Instagram.

DISCLOSURE: Cocoon is a current TAE client. Enlisting my consulting services in no way guarantees a post, but I try to work with like-minded brands and often find myself wanting to share them! As always, let me know if you have any questions!

The Introduction: The-Commons

Another new shop I’m so excited about… The-Commons.

A physical and online shop located in Charleston, South Carolina (a place I’d love to visit!), The-Commons is focused on American made goods for the home… and they carry some really incredible brands that I’ve never heard of, which always makes my day.

ABOUT THE-COMMONS:
We find and curate a collection of American made goods for the home that are both inspirational and generational. We look for beautifully designed, high quality goods that express the modern American design ethos as well as the earthy, textural and tangible design solutions that come from products made by hand and heart.

We believe modern and timeless are the same thing and that America has a unique and leading perspective on this design approach. We believe that filling your home with beautiful and useful goods from designers who’s singular passion is to the make the best pieces by hand for you will make your life better.

SOME OF MY FAVORITES:
the-commons-us

Walnut Bottle Rocks | Mini White Star Bowl | Dodecahedron Relic | Lidded Jar

FOLLOW THE-COMMONS: Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Pinterest

Brook There

Throughout my search for American made apparel, I’ve struggled to find American made bras that were not only pretty but also actually served their purpose (because if I didn’t need one… I just wouldn’t wear one, right?!). After being introduced to Brook Delorme, founder and designer of Brook There, and testing out the product, I’m happy to have found a great brand to recommend. Brook and her husband and partner Daniel are awesome – totally committed to creating quality, handmade products using organic and sustainable materials in Maine and to supporting American made.

Read on for an interview with Brooke on her business and what she has learned… and also for some insight into the sizing and design process. I am always asked why brands don’t carry broader size ranges and Brook’s answer and thoughts on sizing applies to almost all apparel. If you have additional questions, please leave them in the comments!

WHAT MADE YOU START BROOK THERE?

We started the organic lingerie line because I couldn’t find the type of pieces I wanted to wear: wireless, soft cup, made of organic cotton that also felt sophisticated. So many of the wireless & soft-structure bras on the market are made of materials that I’m not crazy about, like foam, nylon, lace, or other synthetics.

I’ve been designing clothing for myself since I was twelve, and started selling one-of-a-kind pieces during college. Focusing the need to sew and make into a brand was the impetus behind Brook There.

HOW DID YOUR PAST EXPERIENCES LEAD TO BROOK THERE?

Daniel – my husband and business partner – and I also run Seawall, a menswear focused brand, also cut & sewn in Maine. We went to college together, in Portland, after which he went on to do graphic design and worked at Rogues Gallery (a mid-2000s mens brand in Portland that was super hot for a moment). I went and worked in technology for five years. We reconnected through the fashion and art scene, started a conceptual art gallery, and then decided to go back to what we know – clothing.

WHAT DRIVES YOU?

I love everything about clothing and fabric- I think that’s why I’m so sensitive about using synthetics. They smell bad to me. I love touching fabric, figuring out how things should go together, and the process of pattern-making or sewing.

Of course, the reality of running a business is that design really can only happen for about two months of the year. The rest of the time, one has to be happy with designing other aspects of a small business.

WHAT MAKES YOUR DAY?

Hmm. Should I interpret that as “what makes your day great?” or “What makes up your day?” I’m going with the latter.

coffee. feed cat. reading or writing. coffee again. workshop. current samples/ photos/ web/ production tasks. shipping. long long conversations with Daniel about our businesses. feed cat. he cooks dinner. sleep.

brook-there

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO YOURSELF WHEN YOU FIRST STARTED?

1. To have more patience about designing good systems and finding the right people. It’s important to be really, really picky about who you work with, who you bring into your inner circle.
2. To understand inventory. For a few years, I did the thing which was very popular at that time- making to order. We moved away from that completely a few years back for a bunch of reasons. I think that experience led me to misunderstand good inventory management.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE AMERICAN MADE BRANDS?

I love my 3sixteen jeans – I bought from their first season of women’s jeans and wear them almost everyday.

WHY IS AMERICAN MADE SO IMPORTANT TO YOU AND YOUR BUSINESS?

One of our “hobbies” is reading and talking about economics and economic theory. It’s never seemed particularly rational that America should or could completely outsource manufacturing.

As a small business, it’s very costly to manufacture overseas. The per unit cost might be significantly less, but the other costs add up and aren’t really off-set until a business has reached a certain scale. Finally, the oversight of safety and ethics is extraordinarily hard for a small company producing overseas.

Working in Maine, we can personally know every person who touches our garments in the production process, visit them in their workspace, and not have to worry that the production might be secretly farmed out to a second or third sub contractor.


Black & White Striped Set | Rose Quartz Silk Set | Black Pixy Set

WHAT SHOULD WE LOOK FOR WHILE PURCHASING LINGERIE? HOW CAN WE MAKE SURE THE FIT IS RIGHT?

It’s important to try to find a brand’s size chart and fit instructions. A size chart should include actual body measurements- not just garment measurements. Garment measurements can be useful on non-stretch pieces like pants or button shirts, but are really not useful on pieces made of stretch fabric.

Bra sizing has practically no standardization, which is why finding the fit instructions is super-important. There are several different methods for calculating band and cup size, and these differ across regions of the world. They also, most confusingly, may use the same numbering system- so a 36B in an American size schema is a 32D in a newly-popular British schema! I’ve written more about this here and posted a size comparison chart, because this is a complex topic.

When we look at what’s going on in the market – especially with the ongoing discussion about women not wearing the correct bra size – it feels like we’re back in the 1950s. What women should look for is a style that fits, and is comfortable- in the way they want it too. Often, this will take trying on several brands and cup styles. Aesthetically, I prefer the more natural shape and silhouette of a soft cup style.

Personally, I avoid clothing that is too tight, has metal parts like hooks or underwires, or has any sort of itchy fabric or trim. This influences our end product design significantly, and we end up with a product that is most definitely niche.

I SEE A LOT OF COMMENTARY ON SIZING, WHICH I UNDERSTAND TO BE A COMPLICATED SUBJECT. CAN YOU HELP US TO UNDERSTAND WHAT GOES INTO SIZING WHILE BUILDING A LINE AND WHY IT IS SO HARD TO CREATE A LINE THAT CAN FIT ALL SIZES?

I’m always happy to answer questions about sizing! Forgive the length, but it takes a while to explain sufficiently.

First thing to know is: All brands, from the biggest to the smallest have a fit model. This is someone who the brand perceives to be in the middle of the size range of their target audience. In the majority of small brands, the designer acts as a fit model, because she/he is up close and personal with the clothes, and has the vision of how they should fit. (editor’s note – also, s/he is free!)

The fit model needs to be in the middle of the size range because patterns are graded (sized) up and down from there. Grading is, for the most part, algorithmic or rule-based. There’s only so far a pattern can be graded in one direction or another before it begins to lose integrity in relation to the population who might fit that size. It’s hard to have a size range of more than 6 or 7 size-steps without bringing in additional fit models and starting a new range from a new middle. (editor’s note – this would essentially be making an entirely new item – new patterns, cuts, etc.)

All these points become exacerbated if a brand is making tailored, fitted pieces of non-stretch fabric. Many brands avoid this end by using loose, unfitted cuts or stretchy fabric, like we do, allowing pieces to work on a wider size range than they otherwise might.

As this relates to bra sizing: All the same points apply, with regards to fit models and size ranges. We currently offer seven bra sizes, and since the cups and body are made of stretchy fabric, we overlap the cup sizes (34AB, 34BC, 34CD) and so forth. When the patterns are in development we fit on a range of cup sizes, AB, BC, and CD.

I am not sensing much or any demand from larger busted women for the style of bra we’re offering because I don’t see us ever adding underwires or many styles with back closures (editor’s note – again, this would be an entirely different product, require different machines, etc.). We are in the process of rolling out a broader line of the 34CD and 36CD sizes, and if these sell well, we’ll explore adding more.

Some of my favorites: Black & White Striped Set | Rose Quartz Silk Set | Black Pixy Set

Follow Brook There: Shop | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter

Please note: I was given a Brook There set to try after completing this interview – and I really do love it. As always, I only write about products I would happily recommend.

Simone LeBlanc Gifting Studio

There are many things that I aspire to be, but gracious and generous are always near the top of my personal list. I want to be the friend that always has the perfect card or gift, or who calls at just the right time, but more often than not, I have the right intentions but the WORST execution. My home is littered with cards and bits of gifts I purchased with the best of intentions, but then never got around to assembling or sending to a friend. And while it is true that it is the thought that counts, you can’t exactly tell a friend, “let me tell you about what I was planning to give you but never actually got together!” (I unfortunately have done that before, but it just makes me an explainer vs. the thoughtful friend I want to be.)

Enter Simone LeBlanc. Gracious and generous are two traits that I would absolutely ascribe to Simone, right up there with effective, practical, and thoughtful. After working as a stylist for many years, Simone started a gifting studio where she focused on high end gifting. This year, Simone has added themed gift boxes to her shop, making gift giving easier for all of us. She puts together GORGEOUS boxes filled with thoughtful details and well-crafted products that allow you to gift a true end-to-end experience. These aren’t exactly things anyone needs, but the things that make everyone happy. Which is what a gift should do. And all the better if you can give a gift that makes someone else happy without stressing yourself out.

Read on for more from Simone and then be sure to check out the shop – the cacao sipping box and the herbal rejuvenation box are pictured here, and I also love the homestead box, the staycation box, and the noble tastes box!

simone-leblanc

WHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND? WHAT LED YOU TO START THE GIFTING STUDIO?

I started my gifting studio three years ago. I had been working as a personal life-stylist where the
projects focused on client’s personal tastes and preferences. I loved connecting with people in this
way – finding an object for their home or a gift that was ‘just the right thing.’ It opened up a world for
me and I realized that there really was an opportunity in the marketplace for my perspective on gifting.
I really pride myself on our approach – personalized, high end gifting with a knowledge of
craftsmanship + fabrication from a maker’s perspective.

YOU RECENTLY ADDED A SHOP TO YOUR BESPOKE GIFTING SERVICES – HOW DID YOU DECIDE WHAT TO INCLUDE IN THE SHOP?

My online shop of gift boxes, which we launched this year, is a natural extension of the custom gifts
and offers themed gift boxes for quick and chic gifting. Each box in the shop is handmade, handpacked
and designed around an experience and mood – a blissful breakfast in bed one weekend
morning, the nostalgia of the great outdoors, a relaxing afternoon of down-time. They are designed to
be very versatile while still being extremely thoughtful and detail-conscious. From the handpicked
assortment of products from some of our favorite creators, to the hand-packed and finished boxes
themselves, these gifts bare all of the signposts of the love and care we put into them.
simone-leblanc-spa-box

IF YOU KNEW THEN WHAT YOU KNOW NOW, WOULD YOU STILL DO IT?

Absolutely. I’m always learning and always growing, which makes me more look forward even more to
evolving the shop. Part of the excitement is that there are so many possibilities, and I love stretching
my creativity to explore these.

YOUR HOME AND WORK IS MADE UP OF EXQUISITE, SPECIAL PIECES – WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR WHILE TRAVELING OR SHOPPING? HOW DO YOU DIFFERENTIATE BETWEEN WHAT IS RIGHT FOR YOU AND WHAT IS RIGHT TO GIVE AS A GIFT?

Thank you! I’m a keen editor and I know how to ask the right questions, find the item from the hidden
back room or uncover the semi-off-center piece that others overlooked. I hunt and dig. It’s really about
finding that item that is just a bit better than the other version of it – a bit finer, a bit more true. I talk
with people about their methods, the fabrication, the purpose, the origin. I love finding that one
amazing object – the diamond in the rough.

There is an idea of longevity, too – I’m not attracted to something simply because it’s the newest,
coolest thing. For me, it’s more about that object and its philosophy of quality and longevity, whether
from how it was made or the story it tells.When it comes to differentiating between what’s right for me versus for my clients and customers, I have to say it’s easy because I’m always thinking about them. There’s a natural switch that happens
when I’m sourcing or shopping, where I’m so tuned into them that I don’t even think about myself. That
is a huge part of what the job is and what makes me good at what I do.

simone-leblanc-herbal-rejuvenation-box

WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES A GREAT GIFT?

The perfect gift is something unexpected, but at the same time very on point and touching. It’s
meaningful and nuanced, and resonates clearly and directly with them. It’s an experience and a means
for authentic connection.

YOU WORK WITH THOUGHTFUL AND RESPONSIBLE BRANDS – MANY OF WHICH ARE MADE IN AMERICA! WHY DO YOU SUPPORT MADE IN AMERICA?

Yes! Frankly, why wouldn’t I support them?! There are so many talented craftspeople here, reinventing
old world techniques and creating timeless new ones. I’m all about using quality of craft and
techniques that may have been forgotten. From day one I’ve always worked with artisans that
exemplified this – they are the people that help set my work apart.

On a broader scope, it’s quite profound to see the changing and evolving opportunities and
possibilities for entrepreneurs that have become a reality through this movement. I’ve always known I
am an entrepreneur, and being a part of it all feels really exciting.
simone-leblanc-hot-chocolate

YOU ALSO WORK DIRECTLY WITH SOME MAKERS – SUCH AS THE GORGEOUS LEATHER GIFT TAGS YOU USE – DO YOU SEE THIS EXPANDING? (I’D LOVE TO SEE A SIMONE LeBLANC COLLECTION!)

Absolutely. This is something we definitely have in the works and an area that is close to our hearts.

HOW DO YOUR BESPOKE CLIENTS FEEL ABOUT WORKING WIHT MORE UNCONVENTIONAL PRODUCTS RATHER THAN BIGGER NAME BRANDS? HOW DO YOU CONVEY THE STORY AND MEANING WITHIN A GIFT? (IT CAN BE AWKWARD WHEN I FIND SOMETHING THAT I THINK IS AWESOME, BUT THAN HAVE TO TELL THE PERSON I BOUGHT IT FOR WHY THAT IS…)

My bespoke clients really appreciate that we offer them a level of luxury in the form of something
different from the traditional luxury brand. They appreciate our offering them an alternative to
something they can buy over the counter. And even when we work with luxury brands, which we do
from time to time, it’s more about creating something new and meaningful for our clients, rather than
purchasing a single item as is.

To convey the story and meaning of a gift – this really goes back to my approaching gifts as an inclusive
experience. Think a note or custom menu, small tag or accompanying book, or even a balanced set of
products that were made to be paired together – these all aid in telling the story.

simone-leblanc-gift-box

WHAT ARE YOUR STYLE ESSENTIALS? WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE AMERICAN MADE BRANDS AND ITEMS?

I try to keep it simple. With a new baby and business that takes a lot of my focus I tend to lean on a few
key pieces that make me feel current and put together. My essentials are a great button down, the
watch that my husband gave me for our wedding, a great pair of oxfords, bold lipstick and the perfect
trench coat.

There are so many American made brands that I love, and many of which are designed by talents in my
immediate circle of peers. My personal favorites include Clare Vivier, Black Crane, Jesse Kamm,
Heather Taylor Home and Grace Lee Designs.

WHAT’S NEXT? WHAT ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT?

We’re expanding the offerings in the shop, and beyond the essential gifts we’re also moving towards
adding everything you need to present your gifts with an SL touch in the new year. Very exciting!

FOLLOW SIMONE: Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter

Photos c/o Simone LeBlanc