Grace Lee

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I’ve followed Grace Lee‘s jewelry collection ever since I discovered her incredible lace ring online a few years ago. The ring took me by surprise, something that doesn’t happen that often with jewelry, and I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I saw it in person a year or so later, at Clare Vivier in Silver Lake – and the reality exceeded my expectations. It actually feels like lace – delicate, but still solid and durable. It’s timeless, simple, and so special.

I’m still waiting for the perfect reason to treat myself to a lace ring (which is made all the more difficult by the new variations coming out – like this lace arch ring Grace instagrammed recently!) but a friend and I bought these black diamond disc bracelets on a girls trip last year and I never take mine off.

Grace was so kind to meet me when I was in LA earlier this year – she’s wonderful, funny, and so thoughtful – and her personality shines through in her incredible work.

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HOW DID YOU START GRACE LEE DESIGNS?

I have a finance background, but while pregnant with my daughter, I started to make simple pieces that I wanted but couldn’t find – the whisper ring was created because I wanted an extremely thin ring, but couldn’t find one anywhere. I made mine, and then people started asking me where they could buy them. I put them online, and the business was born… it’s been about six years and the business has grown very naturally over that time.

HOW DO YOU MAKE YOUR COLLECTION?

I draw on graph paper and then scan. From the computer image, we make metal or rubber molds and then we produce in 14 or 18 karat gold.

WHERE DO YOU PRODUCE YOUR COLLECTION?

All production is done in-house or locally – this allows more control over the process. We’re more nimble because it’s local. It gives me more flexibility. It’s important to me to keep as much of it local for as long as I possibly can. But, it’s hard – labor is a bigger expense than gold! Being local also allows me to do custom work. I get to build and create relationships with my customers that can last a long time.

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WHAT INSPIRES YOU?

Life! The Lace Deco rings was inspired by the art deco ceiling at the El Capitan theater and the Sticks and Stones collection was inspired by rocks I saw one day.

WHAT ARE YOUR STYLE ESSENTIALS?

Clare V. Handbags, some type of sneakers – I’m really into Stan Smiths right now. A lot of Black Crane, Steven Alan. Hansel from Basel socks, and my jewelry!

WHAT GETS YOU THROUGH THE DAY? THE WEEK?

Lots of dark chocolate!

I love the time I get to spend with my kids – they will do one thing that will just make me crack up and it’s a great reminder that it’s all worth it. As a mom, sometimes you just have to roll with it – that transfers into my business as well.

Los Angeles has a real, natural community that supports each other.
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Thank you, Grace, for meeting with me and for making beautiful jewelry!

Images c/o Grace Lee Designs.

Grace Lee Designs is on The TAE A LIST. Follow Grace Lee Designs:

Heidi Merrick

heidi-merrick-made-in-america

I discovered Heidi Merrick a few years ago – I remember seeing the Huntington dress on Shopbop and falling in love. I don’t even know if I realized that the dress was made in America – but I still remember it, and I still wish I’d bought it. As I started to follow Heidi’s blog and instagram account, I fell more in love with the brand – and the thought and care Heidi puts into her work. I have since added several pieces to my wardrobe – each piece inevitably becomes a favorite, worn again and again.

Heidi graciously agreed to take some time out of her day to meet with me when I was in LA… I was more than a little overwhelmed as I walked into her studio – it can be scary to meet people you’ve admired for so long! But Heidi is amazing. She emanates positive energy – I could have talked to her all day (or just moved into her incredible studio!) and I think about our conversation often. Heidi is incredibly real, smart, gorgeous, funny, and thoughtful – If i didn’t like her so much, it wouldn’t seem fair. What’s more, everything she does is is done with hard work and integrity. She doesn’t pretend her work is easy, or overemphasize it’s importance, but there is a clear mission and purpose behind what she does, and she acts accordingly. I left our meeting inspired and motivated – and just wanting to be better.

I always feel good when I wear Heidi’s clothes – the beautiful fabrics, impeccable cuts, and perfect little details will make anyone look and feel beautiful. But I’m also proud to wear Heidi Merrick – and to support an amazing, inspiring woman and maker. Thank you Heidi, for all that you do, and for taking the time to share your story – and incredible advice – with us!

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TELL ME ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND:

My dad makes surfboards – I grew up in a manufacturing family. My parents never compromised – I watched that and learned from it. We lived a beautiful, pure life that they wanted to live. I want the same thing. I want to live a nice life.

HOW DID YOU GET STARTED?

My wedding dress was the first piece I made – my mom sewed it. We draped it and then I shredded the silk organza! Then I went to LA Trade Tech where I learned to make clothes. The collection has grown really naturally over the last 9 years.

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WHAT INSPIRES YOU?

The juxtaposition of wearable and beautiful – it can be hard to find in fashion.

WHAT KEEPS YOU GOING?

I know that I will only do this while I want to do it. Life is more important than work.

In fashion, you have a community that is working so hard to make things happen. There are people you’ve worked with over the years that are always so happy to see you – and you find so much in common with people that you wouldn’t have known otherwise. This is the place that I feel most useful – even though so much of my work is done by myself.

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WHO DO YOU DESIGN FOR?

My idea of the elevated CA lifestyle. How I want the world to look. What I want women to wear. You can feel like you have a super beautiful, super relaxed life here. You can be resorty in the day and elegant at night.

It’s also always been important to me to have price points that my friends can buy.

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR OTHER MAKERS & CREATIVES?

You have to be ok with carving your own path. Responsible production takes a lot of constant assessment, you are constantly making and remaking a commitment to yourself.

The best investment you can make is in your domestic life.

Never buy anything less nice than than the nicest thing you own.

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Primitive Reserve

I stumbled across Rochelle Cheri’s company, Primitive Reserve, through the Instagram spiral- I saw some brass spoons she had made, clicked through to her site, and then fell in love. Rochelle focuses on building functionally beautiful items made of repurposed materials – everything she makes is designed, sourced, and produced by Rochelle in LA. Rochelle’s background and commitment to her work is inspiring, but what I find the most incredible is her commitment to learning – which she shares with her followers and fans on Instagram and on her blog. She’s always trying something new and tweaking and perfecting – and you can see her work benefit from that as you follow along.

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HOW DID YOU GET STARTED?:

In college I was a science and premed major – I joined the theater department and picked up a drill – we were required to build our sets. The shop guys taught us and then we had to build the sets on our own. Through the theater design program, I learned design discipline. I loved making things for people to see.

I studied film production design – but wasn’t connecting with the work or fulfilled. I wanted to build something that people could build into their life and home and use daily. So, I left my corporate art director job to start Primitive Reserve 1.5 years ago.

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WHAT INSPIRES YOU?

My studio partner’s collection of Fine Woodworking magazine – he has issues from the 1970s! There are no women featured in the magazine. It can be hard to be a woman in a man’s industry but I’m determined.
Metal working – I didn’t start working with metal until last year. It’s out of my comfort zone but so fun!
Great metal workers – like Calderone. Ceramics – Ben Medansky, who used to work in this building – Ceramics are the opposite of woodwork.
I find a lot of inspiration in other art forms – outside of my medium.

WHAT GETS YOU THROUGH THE DAY? THROUGH THE WEEK?

Learning something new and trying to incorporate that into my product or blog. When I learn something new, I get everything else I have to do done quickly so that I can work on whatever it is that I’m learning.

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WHERE DO YOU ESCAPE?

Lake Arrowhead. I love to travel outside of LA and see something new and fresh. I love to hike amongst the trees. I used to surf a lot. I love spending time doing anything new or spending time with my friends and my nieces – it gives me a break from the stressful business stuff and gives me great outside perspective.

WHO DO YOU DESIGN FOR?

When I first started, I was designing for myself. I was constantly trying to replicate a natural home environment – a warm, cabin like feeling in the city. I wanted to recreate the feeling of Lake Arrowhead without using literal, rustic pieces.

Now I design for men and women who are near my age and can appreciate what makes these items special, who want to stay ahead of the trends.

WHAT’S NEXT?

I want to do even more metal work, and mix metals – I love the contrast of aluminum and steel and black metals.

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Thanks, Rochelle, for taking the time to show me your space and chat!
[First & last image via Primitive Reserve. Studio images by TAE]

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Toggery

There are few things that I love more than a good tee – but I’m picky. I want my shirts to last, and to fit well, and maintain their shape. And while I’ve spend exorbitant amounts of money on them before, I obviously prefer not to do that. Recently I connected with Kate D’Arcy, the founder and CEO of TOGGERY, and got the chance to try out some of their tees – they are pretty great and I’m excited to have a new option in my closet.

Read on for an interview with Kate and more on TOGGERY!

TELL ME A LITTLE BIT ABOUT TOGGERY:

TOGGERY is a synonym for clothing. The word choice struck me as a stylish way to capture what we are trying to do which is to provide everyday knitwear to our customers at an attractive price. Our brand is all about blending precision-cut styles with ultra-soft, high quality fabrics in order to provide a superior look and feel for modern women as they go about their lives. As far back as I can remember I was always taking basic knitwear tees and dressing them up, so I was always attracted to accessible fashion. My background however is in business operations. My parents owned and operated their Harley Davidson dealership for almost 40 years through good times and bad. I worked there through college and 6 days a week after I first graduated. I know it’s a little odd moving from motorcycles to women’s knitwear, but I learned important lessons about maintaining a profitable business and asserting yourself as a leader while I was there. There are similarities in running any company like the importance picking a distinctive niche in the marketplace which is why we are made in the USA and we utilize higher quality fabrics than you usually see in the basics category. The most important thing I learned is that there are really no “off days” as a business owner. Everything from a delay in production to a glitch on the website will eventually come to your attention, so you have to tend to every aspect of marketing, operations, finance, manufacturing, distribution, etc. with long hours.

I dove into the fashion business in spring 2006 with an original line of knit dresses, named Kathryn Jessica. I produced and sold those dresses on my own in open-air markets and small specialty stores (along with helpful personal orders from friends and family). That line helped me learn the overall business model and how other companies in the fashion industry worked (though you are never done learning in this industry, and plenty of mistakes will be made). Eventually it rolled into TOGGERY in 2007 where I had an opportunity to expand offerings into tops, bottoms and dresses and sell garments through wholesale channels. I’m now TOGGERY’s CEO and Creative Director, and my partner, Alison Latta, is the Chief Financial Officer. I believe great companies are never the work of just one person, so you need a partner that complements your strengths. Alison worked in accounting and has a finance background. She is an extremely hard worker (most important!), so she has been a perfect fit for my creative and operational strengths. I design the collection each season and serve as Brand ambassador managing all aspects of the business. We work hard alongside TOGGERY’s showroom, marketing and manufacturing partners who are so critical to our success.

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WHAT DRIVES YOU?

I’m driven by the opportunity to build a business and wake up every day motivated and passionate about my work.

WHAT IS NEXT?

We are so excited to offer TOGGERY online at toggerybrand.com! The line is still sold through our department and specialty store partners, but we always wanted to be accessible online in order to reach more people with TOGGERY’s quality, precision cut garments and our American-made story. We look at our e-commerce site as our storefront. I’m on the website everyday checking around to see if there is anything we can improve or posting pictures from my life in TOGGERY onto the blog. We are eager to hear from your readers so if you have any questions, comments or concerns about the website or you just want to share your experience with TOGGERY, please email us at customerservice@toggerybrand.com.

WHAT ARE YOUR STYLE ESSENTIALS?

Moisturizer, preferably Kiehls, a smile and confidence.

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WHERE DO YOU DESIGN, WORK, AND PRODUCE?

• Marketing, branding, PR is out of our NYC offices

• Sampling & production are worked on out of our Philadelphia office/ manufacturing facility

• Design is worked on in both cities, we typically start the process in NY when we are in the inspiration/sketch phase and then at the factory in Philadelphia once we are cutting/sewing samples and making changes from there.

I typically work between both locations so my work week is split between Philadelphia and NYC

WHERE DO YOU SHOP?

If I have time to shop(I love to shop) it’s typically in the midst of a work day so I’m usually in Philly or NYC and my favorite stores are:

• Philly – Knit Wit, Barneys, Third Street Habit

• NY – I love shopping in Brooklyn, my favorite shops are Poppy in Park Slope, Alter in Greenpoint, and Catbird for dainty jewelry in Williamsburg.

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WHY DO YOU MANUFACTURE IN AMERICA?

Producing abroad is not in the best interest of our business model. Our industry is one where we need to get product to the market quickly while maintaining the quality that TOGGERY is known for. “Made in the USA” is a key differentiator for us, and our production facility is a mile from my home in Philadelphia which makes it much easier to monitor. We love the vendors we work with, they support what we are trying to build and they help us problem solve when we encounter an issue. And we do it all in-person for the most part.

Images c/o TOGGERY.