Of a Kind

When friends ask me my favorite spots for online shopping, Of a Kind is always on the list. I’ve followed this incredible e-commerce + editorial site – which launches limited edition products from emerging fashion designers each week- for years and was ecstatic when we arranged this interview. I could have talked retail and favorite designers with Claire and Erica for hours – and they come across on the phone exactly as you’d imagine on the site. Read on for more about Of a Kind – and a preview of the items that are launching this week!

Also, make sure to check out their blog, Stuff We Love, and sign up for the hysterical email newsletter – one of the few that I actually read each week! Thanks, Claire & Erica!

OF-A-KIND-KYYOTE-EARRINGGold Crescent Quill Earrings by Kyyote for Of a Kind | 45 of a kind | $88

TELL ME ABOUT HOW OF A KIND CAME TO BE:

Clare: We’d been friends since college at the University of Chicago and had both moved to New York. Erica was working in magazines and I’d been working in the art world. I felt like the future of supporting artists and creatives was on the internet, and I wanted to be a part of it. Erica was helping me edit my cover letter for 20 x 200, a  site focused on introducing artists to new collectors, and we realized that we could translate that model to the fashion world. We knew that if we told the story behind the product, we could sell the work of unknown artists and designers.

We had the idea in January 2010 and launched in November 2010, focused on one of a kind pieces and content geared towards the designer – interviews, photo essays, etc.

WHAT (AND WHO!) INSPIRES YOU?

We’re inspired by other companies in our space and in similar industries. The magazine world. The food world. We’re very inspired by other entrepreneurs:

Ten Over Six Founders Kristen Lee and Brady Cunningham have built an incredible brick & mortar business that is now five years old and still growing.

Susan Feldman, the founder of One Kings Lane. She has built a huge company that is backed by venture capitalists but is still very grounded and down to earth and she takes things one at a time.

Jen Bekman from 20×200.

The designers that we work with. It’s inspiring to be a small business that supports other small businesses. We’ve built great relationships with many of our designers and we learn from each other and can help each other.

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LETS TALK ABOUT E-COMMERCE VS. BRICK & MORTAR:

We still love an instore experience. We are focused online but we still love to support boutiques. These boutiques support the same ecosystem that we are in and we can support each other.

Our story telling perspective is best for an online model. We grew up in small cities and towns that didn’t have many independent boutiques so we like that we have created something that everyone can have access to.

We take inspiration from the best boutiques – the owners can give you guidance as to what to wear or buy and can tell you the story behind the product. Those are enriching experiences and that is what we are trying to create online.

TELL ME ABOUT COLLECTIONS, THE NEWEST ADDITION TO OF A KIND:

Launching Collections was a natural step in growing our business. As the site grew, we found that there was a need from our customers to access the entire collection from the designers we featured – either because our exclusive item had sold out, or the customers simply wanted to buy more pieces than what we were selling. Our designers also started to come to us for help in building out their e-commerce sites so we realized we could create a solution for our customers and our designers.

Collections make it easier for designers to sell their product and also provides customers with more options and selections, as well as the comfort of shopping from a site they can trust.

OF-A-KIND-BLANCA-MONRO-GOMEZ-RINGChampagne Diamond Tiny Solitaire Ring by Blanca Monros Gomez for Of a Kind | 45 of a kind | $215

WHAT ARE YOUR STYLE ESSENTIALS?

Jeans and a flat boot, typically Loeffler Randall. Statement accessories – shoes, bags, and necklaces that can stand out when paired with streamlined clothing.

WHAT HAVE YOU RECENTLY PURCHASED FOR SPRING?

E: A Black Crane Striped Linen Top

C. Two A Piece Apart shirts and a Demylee cropped sweater – I buy a new version every year and wear them all of the time.

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Thank you, Claire & Erica!
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J.W. Hulme

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Heritage has become a buzz word lately, and – after reading hundreds of brand pitches touting heritage ideals and craftsmanship – for products that looked poorly made even from my laptop screen –  it was starting to lose it’s meaning.

And then I visited J.W. Hulme in St. Paul.

And suddenly heritage – real heritage – made a lot more sense to me.

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I’ve been a fan of J.W. Hulme bags for years – that weekender is entirely impractical for my preferred methods of travel but is just so gorgeous that I’d consider working out just so I could carry it around the airport with me – but didn’t know much about the brand until Ashley and I visited the factory a few months ago.

After this visit, I have such a different understanding of what heritage really means – and it is impressive.

J.W. Hulme opened in 1905 as a field and sport company, and all products have always been produced in St. Paul, Minnesota, using domestically sourced materials. The company has always focused on quality over anything else – the bags are classic, meant to be used, and are guaranteed to last.

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The production of these bags is rather incredible. The company only uses A-grade, heavy leather hides from carefully selected partner tanneries across the US. The leather arrives, is inspected, and then is split – which thins the leather out to a uniform width, and hand cut using a steel die. Each bag is made up of 8-10 pieces of leather, using the right part of a hide for each piece is imperative – and knowing which part that is is an art.

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After cutting, the ends of each piece are hand painted (!!!) for consistency, and then the leather is lined and backed. If the product is part of the American Heritage line, the leather is hand buffed and burnished to create a patina. The bags are finished with solid brass hardware and Riri zippers – considered the best zippers in the market. And the bags are guaranteed – for life.

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Making bags is labor intensive, but the attention to detail – and the respect for the craft – of each employee was obvious. Many of the employees have worked for the company for over 20 years, and J.W. Hulme is also a partner in The Makers Coalition, an organization working to build a trained cut and sew industry within Minnesota. I asked Laura, the Vice President of Brand Management, about her experience at J.W. Hulme, and she said “There is an amazing level of integrity that everyone brings when they come in in the morning. It’s not just a job, this is a mission. Everyone gets what we are doing and why we are doing it.”

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This is a mission I’m proud to support. Thank you, Alfred and Laura, for showing us the factory and helping us to understand what J.W. Hulme – and heritage – is all about.
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Original photography for TAE by Ashley Sullivan | Instagram

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Maison du Soir

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So – the dirty secret of working from home (at least my dirty secret!) is that it’s very easy to spend a lot of time in your pajamas. As someone who has always been an advocate of dressing the part, I knew better – but when I was working from my couch, my laziness won out, and I’d spend all day in my workout clothes – if I was lucky – or my pajamas. But – the days that I left the house in the morning – and thus got dressed – were always my best, so the proof was there – dressing like a responsible, productive human being made me act like one.

Courtney Kates created Maison du Soir on the same concept – sleep is arguably the most important thing we can do for our health – and while we sleep we dream and build out our ideas. But most of us sleep in things we’d never be caught dead leaving the house in. We don’t respect our sleep, even though we know it’s incredibly important.

I’ve invested in my bed and bedding, knowing that we spend 30% of our day in bed. But until the last year or so, my pajama drawer was filled with holey, stained, mismatched tees and shorts – many from high school! Every night I had to go through the entire drawer to find something to sleep in, and I never liked anything I found. We make so many important decisions in a day, what we wear to sleep should not be one of them. I ruthlessly attacked my dresser, and now I only have a few items that I love to wear – and I sleep so much better.

My favorites – without question – are my Maison du Soir pieces – particularly the items from Courtney’s newest collection – which, if you are braver than I am, work just as well as separates during the day (out in the real world, not just on your couch!). Read on for an interview with Courtney on the inspiration behind this amazing collection and what she’s learned over the last year! (to learn more about Courtney and MDS, read our first interview here!)

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WHAT INSPIRED THE NEW PRINTS?

The constellation print was inspired by a vintage map of the stars. Every season I have a mellow, easy print and a crazier, more fun print.  The brighter print this season was the multi colored floral and I love how it’s grounded back to black.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PIECE IN THE COLLECTION?

Oh such a tough question…it’s like asking which child is your favorite!!  I love the Begonia dress…it seems to embody the brand values in one style….it can be worn as sleepwear or daywear.  It’s flattering for different body types and simply makes you feel beautiful when wearing it.

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I LOVE YOUR LOOKBOOK CONCEPT – TELL ME MORE ABOUT IT!

The concept of the lookbook/Spring 14 photoshoot was inspired by Sleeping Beauty and was an attempt to evoke a bit of whimsy and fantasy.  Our first photoshoot introduced the Maison Du Soir woman and the second (Spring) was what happens in her dreams.  Eugenia Kuzmina, our beautiful model was given direction to imagine as if she was dreaming and all these colorful butterflies and adorable animals were drawn to her beauty.  Eugenia is fantastic, one of the hardest working and nicest models I have ever worked with.  For photography and concept, I worked with Scott Chebegia.  I can’t tell you how much I enjoy working with Scott.  He is hilarious which always makes for a fun day but he has the ability to take my concepts to the next level…he makes my vision come to life but also brings new ideas to the table. Scott is insanely talented and just simply a wonderful person.

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WHAT DID YOU LEARN AND INCORPORATE FROM SEASON ONE?

I learned a lot about fit and construction from the first season.  Even though this has been my background for over 10 years, I’ve learned that even with all the knowledge and all the resources , it still takes a season or two to figure out what will make everyone happy.  The first season’s fabric had stretch which made it very difficult to sew. I reduced the stretch this season to keep my costs from going up.  The first season also had a European fit and was more petite…this season, I adjusted the blocks a bit.  We still aren’t perfect but striving to get there. We have a lot of new stuff in the works….new fabrications, more price tiers….I’m looking forward to trying new things and continuing to bringing women comfortable and stylish product to sleep in.  No more ugly jammies!

Thanks, Courtney! Follow Maison du Soir:

The Podolls

the-podolls-burlingameI’ve always been obsessed with a story and meaning behind an item or a brand – that’s essentially why I started TAE – but as I interview more makers and designers, I’m starting to become even more interested with the way they combine their business into their lives – the full circle implications of what they do and how they do it. Because if you are working to build an ethical, responsible business, it doesn’t make sense to let your work consume you – we all know that’s not sustainable, but in this case, it is in direct opposition with the ultimate goal.

Josh & Lauren Podoll are my new shining example of partners – in work and in life – who are building a conscious life and business. Alexandra and I visited with them at their store in Burlingame a few months ago and I am so impressed by what they have built. The Podolls is a carefully (gorgeously!) handcrafted apparel line with a flagship lifestyle concept store in Burlingame.

Josh & Lauren met over 10 years ago in California – Lauren was a retail buyer and Josh was an abstract artist and painter who sold a collection of tee shirts to Lauren’s store. They started dating and working together concurrently – moving from vintage patchwork and screen printed tee shirts sold all over the the world to a high end label that they presented at fashion week. Over time, they saw an opportunity to connect their lifestyle and their work and, in 2008, launched The Podolls, focusing on everyday staples made with great materials and interesting details. Since then, they have launched a kids line, podots, to manage scrap waste from the women’s line, and opened their flagship store.

The gorgeous store allows Josh & Lauren to share their overall vision for the brand- they can make special products, such as leather jackets, and sell them without wholesale markup, and they can support their friend’s brands and brands with a likeminded ethos. There is strict criteria for what is carried in the store – as explained on each item’s hangtang – but other than that, they don’t call it out – while shopping, you just think you are in a beautiful, impeccably curated boutique.

Read on for a little question and answer session with The Podolls that proved to me that Josh and Lauren are living the dream – amazing style, surfing everyday, an awesome little kid, and a business that takes an immense amount of hard work but complements and evolves their lifestyle. And on top of that – they are incredibly generous, and are giving TAE readers a discount. Happy Monday!

the-podolls-kids-clothingWHAT INSPIRES YOU?

L: Textiles every season – sometimes we make our own for the collection. The lifestyles of the women I know – how will they wear our clothes and what do they want them to be? We want our brand identity to take a backseat to the clothes working for the people who wear them.

J: Textiles – you see a fabric and you think, “What does that want to be?” – you can’t force it. Contemporary art. Historical art figures. Living in San Francisco.

WHAT ARE YOUR STYLE ESSENTIALS?

L: A Goyard tote – everyday. Diamond studs. Boots year round. Our wing blouse in all of the fabrics. RGB nail polish. bkr water bottles. Shawn Burke pouches in a Podolls print. Clare V. Leopard Pouches. A great leather jacket.

J: Engineered Garments jacket. Converse. Raleigh & Imogene + Willie Denim. A short, cropped hair cut. Westward Leaning Sunglasses. Fairends Baseball Caps.

the-podolls-made-in-americaWHAT GETS YOU THROUGH THE DAY? THROUGH THE WEEK?

L & J: Blue Bottle Espresso. Our son, Dashiell – who is also why we need so much caffeine.

L: Yoga

J: Surfing – every morning.

WHERE DO YOU ESCAPE?

J: The Ocean. Whether or not it’s a good day for surfing, you are still in the ocean…with dolphins. You get 100 yards out and and it’s wild and free and amazing.

L: Being in nature and away from this material world we live in. Stay-cations. Discovering something new – like a new neighborhood restaurant.

the-podolls-studioWHY DO YOU MANUFACTURE IN THE USA?

It is so satisfying to be able to provide jobs and keep people in business. We love to support our local economy and fellow artisans. We appreciate the ability to oversee our manufacturing and quality. Also, the relationships we’ve made are the best part of what we do – there is a human side of manufacturing, and we believe that is translated into what you wear.

WHAT EXCITES YOU?

The store – it still feels really new. Some exclusive products – including leather jackets! – that we have coming in just for the store. The collection we are currently designing. The physical interpretation of our ideas as our samples come in – it feels like Christmas.

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The Podolls have recently launched their new e-commerce site, and in celebration, they are giving TAE readers 15% off the entire site through the end of April! TROUBLE!!! Use code TAE 15 and stock up for spring! Tomorrow I’ll be sharing my favorites from the site… get them while you can! Thank you, Josh & Lauren!!!

Follow along for more fun: